Remove seal protector and wax paper (if used) from short stub shaft. Install and tighten lock bracket bolt to specification. Install lock bracket on outer bearing adjuster. Tighten outer bearing adjuster until reference marks are aligned. Rotate differential assembly several times in both directions to seat bearings. (13.6 N.m) less than torque value obtained in step 4 during removal. Screw outer bearing adjuster into transaxle case until torque reading is 120 INCH lbs. Lubricate threads on outer bearing adjuster with gear oil. Install NEW "O" ring on outer bearing adjuster. Lubricate seal protector and lip of oil seal with gear oil. Install Seal Protector (6591) on short stub shaft. If corrosion is present, wrap short stub shaft with wax paper before installing seal protector. Press NEW oil seal into outer bearing adjuster. Press oil seal from outer bearing adjuster. Using socket, remove outer bearing adjuster from differential cover.
Note torque reading for reassembly reference. Using torque wrench, measure amount of torque required to rotate outer bearing adjuster clockwise until reference marks are realigned. Using Socket (6503), rotate outer bearing adjuster slightly counterclockwise. Remove bolt and lock bracket from outer bearing adjuster. Place reference marks on differential cover and outer bearing adjuster located near short stub shaft on right side of transaxle for reassembly reference. Short stub shaft is right stub shaft when viewed from rear of transaxle. If any components except oil seals are replaced, the following procedure cannot be used. NOTE:The following procedure can be used to change oil seal without removing transaxle from vehicle or having to reset ring gear backlash and differential bearing rotating torque. I think this is what you are looking for good luck Should I just replace the wheel breaing, forget about the differential for now and hope for the best? I know that there is a cir-clip on the stub shaft that retains the inner cv joint, but after 3 hours of prying and a bent pry bar I gave up. The right inner CV joint stubbornly will not slide off of the differential stub shaft. I wanted to open the differential cover to take a closer look, but on my way in there I ran into a snag. Now it's posible that my ears were playing tricks on me and the noise was in fact comming from the wheel bearing since they are very close to each other.Ĭould the wheel bearing be causing this noise as well?
Curiously, I also noticed that the clicking and snapping sound was comming from the differential on the right side of the trans. Sure enough, I heard the wheel whine from the bearing. Also, I put the front end up on stands and against my better judgement ran the car in drive so that I could inspect the noise while the wheels are spinning. I suspected the lower control arm with integrated ball joint, but I replaced these last year. This turned into a clunking snapping sound that would increase in frequency relative to vehicle speed. I suspected the wheel bearing because of the low-tone whine. I recently noticed noise from the right front wheel.